March 2002 - Stalker V6 « The Oakes Family

March 2002 - Stalker V6

The chassis has been painted gloss black using POR-15, after having welded on the radiator mounts and headlamp mounts.
I have rebuilt the rear axle, fitting new seals, shoes, springs and drums and this also has had the POR15 treatment.The engine has been stripped to the basics and is ready for its condition to be tested. Looks fine from the outside and was apparently doing well when the Camaro failed its tree-climbing test.

Cut the two floor panels to fit, painted them, and fixed them to the frame with sealant and hex head screws.

Cut the two hip panels to size.

Beat the first tunnel side into shape, folding the top edge over the tunnel, where it will be covered by the tunnel top piece.

The rear seat and hip panels have been painted, glued and screwed into place.

I have bought a pile of Grade 8 bolts to fit the suspension parts - I plan to next fit the front suspension and steering rack.

Drilled the eight holes to fit the lower balljoints onto the lower suspension arms. Quite a tough job - that hardened steel is Tough!

Painted upper and lower suspension arms as well as both spindles.

Picked up some 3M 5200 black sealant to glue in the suspension bushes. This stuff is VERY sticky, but takes a while to dry. So far, after two days, it is just about dry to the touch, although full cure is expected to be about 5 days. Its hard to see all the suspension bits just sitting there waiting…

Continued work on the engine - stripped off last of external parts, the intake manifold, rockers, rods and lifters, then pulled the heads - first time I’ve been in an engine! - it all seems dirty and mucky but without huge problems. I’ve decided to pull it all apart, clean and replace any damaged or worn parts, then reassemble and see how it goes…

Peace level at home improves as scrap S10 is removed from lawn…

Flipped the engine over and removed the pan and oil pump. Just a couple of small bits of crud stuck to the filter, and the crank is oily but looks clean. Considered just putting the pan back on with a new oil pump rather than mess with the bearings and such but then remembered that the cam area needs a good clean out, and this will just wash muck down into the crank area - so I will remove the pistons at least later.

Fitted the lower suspension arm on the right front of the chassis. This was then held in place with a fake shock, a metal bar. The top arm followed, and the spindle, then upper ball joint, tie rod end and the corner was complete! (Thanks to Dennis for doing such a good job welding on the brackets that the bolts fitted straight through first time.)

Removed the harmonic damper and timing cover. The chain was loose so I will replace the timing set. Pulled off the gears and then the camshaft, which was in suprisingly good condition. Knocked out one freeze plug - very good condition so I may not bother with the rest.

Ridge reamed the cylinders in order to safely remove the pistons.

Fitted the left front suspension - measurements confirm accuracy of front-to-back alignment within a sixteenth of an inch, easily remedied by the movement of a washer…

Removed all pistons - hardly any wear - even the skirt ring pattern is still completely in place. Rod bearings show a little contamination - worth replacing.

Pulled off the main bearings - not a lot of wear, but a little contamination again - will be replaced.

Pulled out the crankshaft - looks very good - no visible problems.

Lower main bearings mostly ok, a couple with a little contamination so these will all be replaced.

So now Im left with an empty block - started scraping away at the carbon - much cleaning and washing ahead

Hired a valve spring compressor from Murray’s Auto - much better than the one from Autozone - and removed all valves, springs and assorted pieces from the heads.

Purchases include a scraper (for scraping!) and a dial caliper (for measuring!) as well as a bucket of Gunk part cleaner, which has an internal mesh bucket to aid dipping of smaller parts.

Spent several hours getting to know the aforementioned scraper and its effects on block and heads.

Re-measured front suspension, following encouragement from Dennis, and found that indeed I was measuring incorrectly and the suspension brackets are indeed perfectly aligned to within a 1/16th… so I removed the extra washer.

We purchased 2 shelving units and now have all tools and parts up off the floor. Sweeping out the garage and clearing everything away means that we can now park at least one car in at night and gives me so much more movement around the chassis. And I can find the right tool when I need it…

Finished scraping the engine block - you can even see the original milling marks. Blew out with compressed air.

Removed piston rings from #1 piston and dunked in cleaning bucket for 30 mins. It came out a lot cleaner, certainly oil free, but still with a little varnish and carbon. Washed off in water as directed and squirted with WD40.

Started to measure out second tunnel panel.

Cut the second tunnel panel to shape and fitted clecos to hold it tight while I whacked it into shape.

Removed another freeze plug from the block - also in excellent condition - I think I will leave the rest.

Fitted both front tunnel pieces - holes drilled and held in place.

Started firewall - discovered novel way of bending front edge up to save additional piece - quite pleased with this - it all fits snugly and when painted will look great!

Removed bend and reverted to standard method! This allows greater flexibility in positioning for even better panel fitting.

Found a suitable handbrake from a Ford Festiva that will mount on the tunnel at the back on the passenger side. Minor modifications to the cable will be needed, but easily worth the $8 it cost!

Cut side panels to shape and folded to fit body sides.

Fitted scuttle over firewall and support hoop - very solid.

Fitted hood - sanded smooth edge to meet scuttle - then attached hinges to allow the hood to pivot forward for maintenance access.